More Odds’n’Sods!

Well, the clocks going back in the UK has given me an extra hour to get a post done!  Still doing small groups of figures, all for my Boxer Rebellion forces!  Have actually surprised myself by getting some cavalry finished (and I feel it’s only right to mention how much I hate painting horses every time I feature some badly painted horses)!

DSCF4127 - Edited

First up, some Mongol cavalry (shown above).  Mongols still served as irregular cavalry in 1900 and still used bows, although most also carried fairly modern firearms as well.  The three above qualify for the October community painting challenge because they have been sadly neglected for years and can now join three others that were painted ages ago.  It took me a long time to find suitable figures in 20mm scale and these are Kennington Miniatures (now SHQ) Turcoman cavalry from their Crusades figure range.

DSCF4122 - Edited

Next, some Chinese regular cavalry, part of my (very small) force of Kansu Braves.  The figures were basically Newline Designs American Civil War artillery riders with straw sun hats made from plastic discs covered in greenstuff, sanded down and given a coating of Gorilla Glue gel to give them some texture.  Horse were spare cavalry horses from wherever!  These three were not really neglected and they also join another three figures to form a larger unit.

DSCF4134 - Edited

Lastly, some opposition for the Chinese in the form of Japanese infantry, all from B & B Miniatures Russian Civil War range of Interventionist troops.  The old Osprey book on the Boxer Rebellion mentions that Japanese infantry wore either white or khaki summer uniforms, so years ago I painted half my Japanese infantry in the latter colour (as shown by the figure on the right).  A more recent source (that I’d consider very trustworthy) mentions the use of white only, so I repainted the khaki uniforms in dark blue for the figures on the left, with these three now giving me two 10-man infantry units (and the cap band colour changed from yellow to red when the Japanese adopted khaki in 1904).  At some point, I’ll probably re-paint the last 10 khaki figures in blue uniforms, but not just yet!

With these figures finished, alongside the French completed earlier in the month, I’ve got a few of my Boxer Rebellion forces re-organised and ready to fight now.  If I can get some Autumn sunlight, I’ll try and get some photos taken and try and feature them in some upcoming posts.


  1. Great work John, agree horses can cause a lot of grief painting (probably why I haven’t painted one in many years now !) Always fun when new information comes to light about a colour scheme, but you’ve done an excellent job on them

    Liked by 4 people

    • Thanks Dave! I ought to try and be a bit more adventurous with my horse colours, particularly if I’m only painting them in ones and twos. Repainting the three Japanese infantry wasn’t too much of a chore actually, but at least I know they’re correct now!

      Liked by 3 people

  2. Looking good mate, I like the horses, the bays look like bays and the black looks like a black to me 👍. Still a period I fancy, but not for a while. I could do a HOTT Force as they have lists for both the boxers and the white devils

    Liked by 3 people

  3. Very much seeing enjoying your Boxer range develop. Your cavalry is looking very fine indeed, in my opinion. I used to feel the same about painting horses but now I value the process much more. I particularly like personalising them white face stripes and socks, etc.

    Liked by 3 people

  4. Nice work John ,and I had to laugh about the horse painting bit as Marvin and I had a little chat about this recently ,I was very hesitant in regards to painting them until I had to paint all those ones for the ECW dio. It was then that I realised that painting blazes and socks (AS Marvin mentioned above ) made it a bit more exciting and got me through a task I have long avoided !

    Liked by 3 people

  5. I seem to be very late to the party over here, looks like I either do not get updates when you post or others post so frequent that your posts just vanish of of my feeds…. Sorry for that, I will rectify that error some how.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Absolutely no apologies necessary, Dave, appreciate you taking a look and leaving a comment! 🙂 I’ve found that I seem to lose updates from people from time to time and have to add them back in! Hope you’re enjoying your books – the darker nights are always good for reading!

      Liked by 1 person

  6. Your sheer inventiveness defies belief! I for one would never have thought of using medieval figures, though they now seem like such a logical choice.

    Out of interest, how do you prep and prime your plastic figures? It’s been ages since I bought any but recall it being something of pain.

    Liked by 1 person

    • I think it was more good luck than good management, but apart from not carrying a firearm in addition to the bow they are spot on!

      Right, I am a dinosaur! I ALWAYS prime in Humbrol matt enamels with a brush, whether I’m painting plastic or metal. I’ve primed in PVA or gloss varnish in the past on plastics to help them keep the paint, but if they’re not subject to rough handling I don’t usually bother now (and even then, they’d always get an enamel coat next). I’ve never found figures that don’t take enamels but some, and the soft HaT figures are worse for this, tend to stay tacky for ages afterwards, in which case a coat of acrylic over the top usually seals them properly. If the figures are a bit bendy, I let ’em soak in a bowl of boiling water for ten minutes or so and then let them cool in air and that usually straightens them up. Washing with detergent or washing up liquid is usually a good idea as well.

      Only material I have ever had a problem with is some of the fine-detail 3-D prints from Shapeways. Paints OK in enamel, but then becomes tacky sometime afterwards. Priming with acrylics seems to become “sparkly” over time, so I have some long term vehicles that are primed while I wait to see what they do. The normal white grainy nylon Shapeways uses takes enamel paints without any problems from my experience so far.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Many thanks for the lengthy exposition! The bit about dipping figures in boiling water is a revelation to me. Who would have thought! I have long been eyeing Strelet’s Japanese paratroopers (Stonewall’s are good, but the casting quality is horrible these days) and early war Yanks, so may give them a go now that I know that gloss varnish and enamels are key. 

        As for Shapeways goodies, I do wonder how their “white versatile plastic” will take to a douse of Tamiya spray paint, which I believe is a synthetic lacquer. Only one way to find out I suppose!

        Liked by 1 person

        • I’ve seen the Strelets Japanese paras and early war Americans – the latter came out after I’d got my metal ones finished (which are no longer available) but they both look good sets! I’ve never really used Tamiya paints, so have no idea what they’re like, but the white versatile plastic has been fine with matt enamel so far for me.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s